The general consensus has always been that the better the view, the worse the food in a restaurant.
Though that might be less true these days, it sort of tallies that The Coal Shed is slightly out of sight of Tower Hill, despite being part of the One Tower Bridge development.
The offshoot of the successful and well-liked restaurant of the same name in Brighton, the focus here is on – you guessed it – roasting over charcoal.
It gives off the effect of being a steak house, though the menu goes far beyond, particularly at brunch.
The headline act, however, isn’t that much of a departure: a surf and turf meal for two, with a seemingly unending list of meats and fish included.
You’re treated to aged sirloin, a bacon chop, smoked black-pudding, scallop and pork-belly skewers, tiger prawns, mussels cooked with nduja. All of that is served with fried eggs on top, in an effort to make it more brunch-like.
The first thing to say is this is a lot of food. And it’s more turf than surf, but it’s still superb value; bearing in mind the decently high quality of the ingredients and the good level of cooking.